Pashmina, the gold of Ladakh.

Chospel, originally from Zangla village in Zanskar, now resides with his wives' family, who are nomads from Kharnak

The process of combing Changra goats for Pashmina wool takes place in the summer, typically around May. Male goats are called Rabo and female goats Rama, while male sheep are referred to as Khalba and female sheep as Mamo. A common term, Ra-luk, is used collectively for both goats and sheep. The young goats are called Regu and young sheep Lugu, or Sidpu and Lagbu, respectively.

A male Changra goat (Rabo), which is larger than a female (Rama), can produce up to 750 grams of wool annually, while a female produces between 250 and 500 grams. Even young goats (Sidpu) yield around 250 grams of Pashmina, with some producing as much as 500 grams in rare cases.

.

Combing the goats for Pashmina is a meticulous and time-consuming task, often taking nearly a month to complete. On average, only 5 to 6 goats are combed each day, and it can take 3 to 4 sessions to fully comb one goat. If a goat is unwell, the process may take up to two months, as the wool in a sick animal tends to cling to the animal’s body. Multiple sessions ensure that the warm insulating wool is gradually removed, providing protection against unpredictable weather. If combing is delayed, the goats risk becoming infested with lice due to the warmth of the Pashmina fiber.

The nomads begin combing by examining the growth of wool near the goat’s ears and limbs, lightly plucking the wool in a method called Kokches. They ask, Kok-duga? ("Can the hair be plucked?") to assess whether the wool is ready to be removed. The full combing process, known as Shadches, follows. In cases where the wool is too long, the nomads use scissors to trim it before continuing with the combing.

For breeding, the Changpas keep two male goats (Rabo) for every 100 females (Rama). These breeding males, known as Yangra or Phara, are selected as early as three months of age and are not combed for Pashmina. Historically, non-breeding Rabos and male sheep (Khalbas) were used to carry salt from the salt lakes of Changthang and Tibet, and barley on return trips from Zanskar. However, Yangras, the female sheep (Mamos) and female goats (Ramas) stayed behind. A Yangra remains fertile for about 7 to 8 years.

As the combing of Changra goats nears completion, the process of shearing sheep wool begins. Scissors are used to shear the wool from the sheep, and within two months, a fresh layer of wool grows that is used to produce Phingpa, a type of felted fabric.

The creation of Phingpa involves a traditional felting process in which the wool is beaten, mixed with water, and mashed before being spread onto a Chaali (a carpet or mat). The wool is then rolled with a stick to form a paste, which is removed from the Chaali and further rolled to increase its strength. This process is reminiscent of recycled paper production. The resulting fabric, Phingpa, is durable and was traditionally used by the nomads to make shoes, caps, Yogor (a women’s garment), and to reinforce the edges of Lugals (woolen bags used to carry goods). These bags were made from Khulu, a fine wool taken from the neck of yaks.

During the salt trade era, Phingpa was essential for the nomads during their long-distance journeys across the rugged plateaus, narrow ridges, and treacherous mountain passes of Tibet and Zanskar. The Lugals, which carried salt and barley, often rubbed against sharp rocks, causing wear and tear that could result in the loss of their contents. To protect the goods, the nomads reinforced the edges of the Lugals with sturdy patches of Phingpa, preserving the integrity of their cargo.

In modern times, however, the production of Phingpa has declined. The process is time-consuming and labor-intensive, and the nomads' winter months are already filled with other activities. Despite the decline in Phingpa production, the Changpa nomads remain industrious throughout the year. Men typically roll wool onto sticks (Yoktod), while women create items like Pabu (traditional shoes) and weave various types of rugs and carpets, such as Tsugden, Tsugdul, and Pherri.

Inside a Rebo

One of the most significant aspects of the Changpa nomadic lifestyle is the construction of the Rebo, the traditional tent that symbolizes their identity. The Rebo is made from Sidpa, a coarse hair taken from the yak’s limbs and stomach, in contrast to the softer Khulu, which comes from the yak’s neck. Sidpa is highly valued, and nomads take great care in preserving it to weave new tents or repair old ones. The Rebo can be divided into two sections, allowing for easy mobility as the nomads move from one pasture to another.

The design of the Rebo is both practical and functional. The top has an opening that can be closed during rain or snow, but otherwise remains open to allow smoke to escape from the Gidpu, the traditional stone fireplace inside the tent. The Gidpu is constructed from local stones at each new campsite, as it is not carried during migrations. The Gidpu ( Nowadays replaced by iron stoves) serves as the central place for cooking, as well as for preparing Yos (roasted barley) and Chang (a traditional drink). Though modern synthetic custom made Rebos have started replacing the traditional woolen ones, the Changpa nomads continue to rely on this traditional shelter to survive and maintain their cultural identity in the harsh conditions of their environment.