Matayen, the first village of Ladakh and the legend of Kutthar peak.

Haji Abdul Lone

Haji Abdul Lone, 72, is a retired government employee from Matayen village in the Kargil district of Ladakh, India. Located just after crossing the Zojila Pass from Kashmir, Matayen is the first village in Ladakh and stands out for being the only one in the region where the majority of residents speak Kashmiri. The village is divided into two main neighborhoods, or Mohallas: Gongma, predominantly inhabited by Kashmiri-origin families, and Yokma, home to Balti families who likely migrated from the Chiktan region.

According to Haji Abdul, the Kashmiri-origin families in Matayen trace their ancestry to migrants from the Lolab Valley in the Kupwara district of Kashmir, though over generations, the connection to Lolab has diminished. As per Haji Abdul, almost 70% of the families in Matayen are of Kashmiri descent, highlighting the village’s strong cultural ties to Kashmir. When asked about the origin of the village’s name, Haji Abdul shares a local belief that “Matayen” comes from “Mat-Aana,” which translates to “Do not come.” This unconventional explanation is widely accepted by the villagers.

Reflecting on his youth, Haji Abdul recalls how life in Matayen was challenging, with basic necessities like rice, salt, and cooking oil being sourced from Srinagar. At that time, corn was the staple food, while rice was considered a luxury. Due to limited road access, villagers had to transport supplies on foot or horseback across the Zojila Pass, a journey that took 5-6 days for each round trip. Poverty was widespread, and many villagers worked as laborers to make ends meet. Abdul’s father, Munnawar Lone, would make trips to Leh as a porter, carrying goods like tea, salt, and kerosene for a contractor.

Today, the only crop cultivated in the village is barley, which also depends on the erratic weather in Matayen. Livestock, which once included goats and sheep, has also declined in numbers over the past two decades, with most families now keeping only one cow for milk. Despite these changes, some aspects of the village’s heritage remain, such as the remnants of the shagarak (polo ground), a reminder of the once-popular sport. Traditional dance and music were once integral parts of wedding celebrations in Matayen, though these customs have largely faded over time.

Haji Abdul recalls a significant moment in Matayen’s history when Farooq Abdullah, the former Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir, visited the village. During his visit, Abdullah suggested relocating Matayen from Ladakh to Kashmir, citing its remoteness and the fact that most of its residents speak Kashmiri. Revenue officials were dispatched to survey the area, and the proposal seemed poised for consideration. However, the plan was eventually abandoned.

Looking back, Haji Abdul and the other residents of Matayen are thankful that the move never went through. They are relieved that their village remained part of Ladakh, preserving its unique identity, and are optimistic about the future, particularly with the upcoming Zojila tunnel. Once completed, the tunnel is expected to transform life in the region by providing year-round connectivity, improving access to essential goods, and opening up new opportunities for trade and tourism.

Haji Abdul shared an intriguing phenomenon in Matayen related to a lesser-known mountain peak called Kutthar, in the local dialect. The villagers believe that the mountains are home to fairies, and in his youth, Haji Abdul often observed two pigeons descending from the peak—a sight that has since stopped. Occasionally, he would also see mysterious lights moving along the nala (stream) that flows from the mountains behind the village. Once, he even heard a soothing melody emanating from the mountains. Stepping outside to investigate, he could hear the music clearly but saw no source for the sound.

Haji Gulam Mohd, at the site where once a building associated with Maharaja Hari Singh stood

Haji Gulam Mohd, 74, from Matayen, spent his life working in road construction, supplementing his modest income with small trading activities. Reflecting on his youth, he recalls how the people of Matayen would carry essential supplies like salt and other goods from Kashmir on foot, transporting them on their backs. In the mid-1980s, around the month of April, Haji Gulam himself made the journey, bringing 50 kg of onions across the Zojila on his back. He bought the onions for Rs. 4 per kg and sold them in Matayen for Rs. 6 per kg. He also bought apricots in Kargil for Rs. 15 per kg and sold them in Matayen for Rs. 20 per kg.

Like other villagers, he once kept livestock, owning around 30 goats and sheep, though he no longer has any. For animal fodder, the villagers relied on grass from the high hills around Matayen. In spring and summer, they grazed their animals on a type of grass called Parangos. Before winter, they spent 3-4 days cutting and drying Parangos on the hillsides. Once dried, the grass was brought down to the village, bundled, beaten, and stored on rooftops to sustain their animals through the six-month winter. Recalling the harsh winters of earlier times, he described snow reaching up to 12 feet. When someone passed away, villagers had to dig through 12 feet of snow, then an additional 4-5 feet to prepare the grave.

Although few historical structures remain in Matayen, Haji Gulam mentioned two sites connected to Maharaja Hari Singh of Kashmir. One was an old road built by the Maharaja, running through the village and linking to the Matayen-Pandaras route. The other, now barren, once housed a building where the Maharaja reportedly rested—likely the Matayen guesthouse, noted in early 20th-century travelogues as a stopover after crossing Zojila. When asked about Matayen’s mysterious Kutthar Peak, Haji Gulam shared an interesting story: He himself had once attempted the climb but had to turn back due to heavy rain. He then mentioned that years ago, a man named Nazeer from Pandaras village had successfully climbed Kutthar and still lives in Pandaras.

Abdul Wahab with Attaullah Lone. The Kutthar is the peak straight up between the two men

Abdul Wahab, from Pandaras village in Kargil and the brother of Nazeer—the only person to have ever climbed Kutthar—shares a deep belief in the mystical aura surrounding the peak. He, along with Attaullah Lone, a member of the aristocratic Dombapas family of Pandaras, took the author to a vantage point on the Leh-Srinagar highway. From there, one can see a distinct tower-like formation atop a mountain near Matayen, which the locals identify as the revered peak of Kutthar. Much like Haji Abdul from Matayen, Abdul Wahab has had his own experiences that suggest something otherworldly about Kutthar. He too claims to have heard music emanating from the mountains for which he has no explanation.

      

            Kutthar a closeup view

Finally, we met Nazeer Ahmed, 71, the first known person to have scaled Kutthar Peak. A retired government teacher, Nazeer is originally from Pandaras and currently resides in Bhimbat village. During his teaching career, he spent most of his time in the Sankoo area of Suru Valley. Back then, reaching Sankoo was no easy feat, as the motorable road ended at Chutak, midway between Kargil town and Suru Valley, requiring a six-hour trek on foot to reach Sankoo. During holidays, Nazeer often traveled the entire journey both ways—from Sankoo to Pandaras and back to Sankoo—on foot, a trip that took two days, with a night spent in Kachan. 

 

Nazeer Ahmed 

When Nazeer Ahmed was around 35 years old, he successfully climbed the Kutthar peak, an experience he recalls vividly. He was accompanied by a Bakarwal friend, and the two set out early in the morning, around 6 a.m., from Pandaras. After they reached Matayen they began their ascent from the Matayen nala, a stream that runs through the village. The climb was strenuous, but they pressed on, and by around 2 p.m., they finally reached the summit. At the top, they took a well-deserved break. Nazeer and his companion brewed tea and shared a meal that they had packed. Nazeer, an avid photographer, had brought a camera and captured several photographs of the breathtaking surroundings. Unfortunately, these photos were lost over the years.

Nazeer, who had a keen eye for detail, described the summit of Kutthar as a vast, open space with no human-made structures—quite contrary to the local myths that suggested otherwise. However, there were natural rock formations that, from certain angles, resembled the outline of a house, and a large, flat stone appeared to be placed deliberately, as though it were part of some ancient design. The only man-made object they found was a tall, narrow stick firmly planted in the ground. This odd feature convinced them that humans had visited the summit before them.

On their descent, Nazeer and friend discovered a more accessible route. Once back down, they stopped by a nearby Bakarwal camp to rest and enjoy a cup of chai, sharing the story of their successful climb. Word of their accomplishment spread quickly throughout the region, and their journey became a celebrated achievement in the quiet local community.