Wednesday, July 9, 2025

At Stok: With Sonam Wangchuk le (85) and Tashi Putit le (89), Nyamshan family, Stok.


Both Sonam Wangchuk and Tashi Putit have spent much of their lives in Stok, working the fields and tending to livestock. Sonam recalls that he was around 20 years old when he first travelled to the Sakti–Chemrey salt market, where he bartered barley for salt. The exchange rate varied from year to year, sometimes requiring twice the quantity of salt for an equal amount of barley, while at other times, the trade was on equal terms.

Tashi Putit remembers the saddlebag known as lugal, which the Changpa traders used to load salt onto sheep. In Stok, these lugals were highly prized, as wool was scarce in the village and the bags served as durable carriers for essentials. There were two distinct types of salt available at Sakti:

1. Tsamar (red), considered the more premium variety, and

2. Tsakar (white), the standard kind.

In addition to bartering salt, some for household use and some for resale in Stok, Sonam Wangchuk also engaged in the trade of phating, a product he purchased from Shamma traders and sold further east in Durbuk, in the Changthang region.

Seasonal Livestock Agreements and Migrations:

One of the major seasonal events in their lives, as in many Stokpa households, was the annual migration of livestock to highland pastures near Stok Kangri. These pastures were not used solely by Stok residents. Each year, around the fourth month of the lunar calendar, families from Chushot entered into formal agreements with Stokpas, entrusting their livestock to them for a period of three to four months.

Sonam recalls taking a day-long trek to Rumbak to bring additional cattle under similar agreements. Sometimes, even relatives from villages like Thiksey would request the Stokpas to keep their animals for the summer grazing season. By the eighth lunar month, the Chushot families would return to retrieve their animals. 

This arrangement was long considered a mutually beneficial tradition:

The animals received rich nourishment in the meadows. A fee of 1 Pao ( 250 grams) of butter called Shemar and a plate of Churpee was paid to the owners by the at the end of the season. The Stokpas benefited from animal dung, and a share of the milk. When firewood was scarce in Ladakh, animal waste served as a crucial fuel source. Two types were especially important:

1. Cattle dung, which was dried and stored directly for use.

2. Rilmang, the droppings of goats and sheep, which required further processing.

The Rilmang was spread in the open and left to break down into a sticky material called Rikpa. To this, villagers added a locally found plant known as Nyalo. The ideal time for mixing was during light drizzle, which helped bind the materials. The resulting paste was then shaped into fuel cakes, dried, and carried back on donkeys to the village along with the cattle dung, both considered valuable fuel stock.

The summer pastures were divided among families. Popular grazing and camping sites included:

Changma, Chortenchan, Makkarmo, Zurler, Yarley, and Phan.Toward the east, near Martho Phu, additional grazing grounds included: Kungkungmar and Chatkangchan.

Monday, July 7, 2025

Ven Thupten Konchok le, aged 97

 

6th July 2025 — On the auspicious occasion of the 90th birthday of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, at Sabu Gompa with Ven Thupten Konchok le, aged 97

Ven Thupten Konchok is perhaps the only living person in all of Ladakh who holds the rare distinction of having attended the very first Kalachakra initiation conferred by His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, in May 1954, at Norbulingka Palace in Lhasa.

He was around sixteen years old when he left Ladakh to pursue higher studies in Tibet. “When I departed,” he recalls, “India was still under British rule. But by the time I returned thirteen years later, India had become an independent country and both His Holiness the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama were visiting as state guests.”

He remembers the historic Kalachakra initiation vividly—a momentous occasion attended by the leading lamas of all the major Buddhist schools of Tibet. One detail stands out in his memory with clarity: His Holiness wore a unique ceremonial robe known as the Rusgyan (from rus, meaning ‘bone’). Ven Thupten Konchok notes that he has never seen His Holiness wear that sacred attire again in any subsequent Kalachakra initiation.

Among other cherished memories, he recalls the grand Togo celebration of Sras Rinpoche in Tibet, an elaborate and joyous event attended by the 19th Bakula Rinpoche. At that time, Lhasa was a thriving spiritual and cultural hub, regularly visited by Ladakhi pilgrims during both summer and winter seasons. The Kalimpong route was commonly taken in winter, while in summer, pilgrims traversed the Changthang plateau, often accompanying the triannual trade mission known as the Lopchak. Ven Thupten Konchok is possibly the only living Ladakhi today to have witnessed the arrival of the Lopchak missions in Lhasa.

He recalls that the Leh Kalon family, the Sra Nyar family, and the Khoja family were the key households entrusted with leading these diplomatic-commercial missions. In particular, he remembers the Kalon family’s head and Dawa Shah, who would enter the Potala Palace wearing tall ceremonial hats made of makhmal (velvet). The mission leaders were permitted to bring four to five attendants to the audience with His Holiness. From one such attendant, Ven Konchok learned that His Holiness often inquired about the well-being of the Ladakhi royal family.