Urgain Rigzin, 75, a resident of Nyugstet in Nubra, is a renowned local historian who has been chronicling the history of the Nubra region since he was 22. His interest in history was sparked by his teacher, Spalzang Sonam, from the Khangchenpa family in Kobet village, who meticulously documented local history and current events in a detailed diary. Inspired by his teacher’s dedication, Urgain also began documenting historical accounts.
According to Urgain, local folklore tells of a legendary highway that once passed through the Siachen Glacier, used by the Horpas (people of Turkic origin) to invade the Nubra Valley. Tobacco was one of the primary goods traded along this route. This legend also speaks of Yarma Monastery, located at the entrance of the now-extinct highway, which is said to hold a collection of Buddhist texts written in gold. The mountain behind Yarma Gompa is believed to conceal hidden treasures, and as the sun sets, these treasures are said to glow from the reflection of the rays.
When news of this treasure reached Yarkand, many people began visiting Yarma Gompa through the Shaksgam Valley (Shaks, Shakma: sharp stones; Gam: box, in Ladakhi) and the present-day Siachen Glacier. According to the legend, fearing that the treasures and golden scriptures in the monastery might be stolen, the people of Nubra turned to the monk, Pirangpa Lama, for help. Using his spiritual powers, Lama Pirangpa threw live coal onto the icy path, melting the road and sealing the route through the Siachen Valley. Urgain also heard from an old monk that the corpses of Horpas were kept in a standing position in the old section of Yarma Gompa. He further mentioned a French traveler named Sha Bru, who visited the area twice in the 1950s, likely in search of the treasure. However, despite his attempts to climb the mountain behind the Gompa, he was unsuccessful.
About 60 years ago, the salt markets of Sakti and Chemrey were well known but primarily catered to the Ladakhis in the Indus Valley. For the people of Nubra and Shyok Valleys, Urgain recalled an annual salt market in Tangyar village, which served as the main hub for trading salt and other goods. Each year, the Changpa traders from Changthang brought their flocks of sheep laden with salt to the Spang area of Tangyar. People from Shyok and Nubra Valleys traveled to Tangyar carrying Nas (Barley) to trade with the Changpas. This market coincided with the summer visit of the lamas from the Samtangling Gompa, who came for their seasonal shopping, known as Yar-tsong. During this time, they purchased Bal(wool) and salt from the Changpas. The monks used the Bal to craft their distinctive maroon robes.
In the past, when Urgain was a young man in his 20s, like many others from Nubra, he made annual visits to Leh. The journey from Kobet to Leh took him three days, which he completed on foot, accompanied by his horses. The Nubrapas typically purchased Marnak and Chai, along with items such as Shatan Tari, Makmal, Shurma, and Double Jeans for the Ladakhi Kos. During these trips, Urgain stayed at Raheem Akhon’s Sarai in Chubi, Leh. Although the accommodation was free, the Nubrapas were expected to leave horse dung as payment in kind.
For more on Siachen Glacier and Yarma Gompa, refer to Harish Kapadia's book: Siachen Glacier, the Battle of Roses.
